Malawi: a whirlwind tour by a volunteer

Malawi has become my second home. I venture over at least every six months now. And every visit is different. Some times I’ll spend all of my time at one project or orphanage and other times, I will go to several different villages, projects, orphanages, etc. I’ll sit through meetings, miss other meetings due to good old “Malawian time”, or get distracted by one thing or another, because there is always so much to see and do.

Earlier this year I spent 10 days touring around visiting projects and villages. It was a rewarding and incredibly positive experience, especially seeing programs I had heard about or read about in action.

 

Tofo, Mozambique

If you’re the kind of traveller that loves a good backpackers party then you can’t go past Tofo. With gorgeous sandy beaches, surf, scuba diving, and a bunch of other fun activities on offer it is a backpackers Mecca. But it’s once the sun starts to dip beneath the hills that the real activities of Tofo unfold.

Dj’s, bands and plenty of drinking, plus chances are that Tofo is the place you will run into every other traveller you’ve met in Mozambique. If you’ve had enough of small fishing villages and getting to hang out with the locals then Tofo is also a good stop over. It has definitely been taken over by the tourism bug. You’ll get charged more for everything here, alcohol, souvenirs, accommodation, and the locals are not quite as friendly to deal with as other destinations in Mozambique. The influence of the Western world is visible here in locals capitalizing on the tourism industry, and so they should. There is money and job opportunities to be had and it should be locals benefiting from this.

If you are after a relaxing travel experience where you can immerse yourself in the culture with the locals of Mozambique, then Tofo is not the ideal location. But for a good time with plenty of sun, beach, and backpackers then Tofo is it.

Tips for Volunteering

Volunteering overseas or at home is not a decision to be taken lightly. When you agree to volunteer, especially overseas, you accept responsibility to share your skills and help improve the quality of life for those less fortunate than yourself. The romantic notion of sweeping in to a small village or school and completely changing their world for the better in one week is, well, slightly unrealistic.

The reality of volunteering in a foreign country is that it is hard work. It takes time for you to adjust to the culture and way of life, the food, the lack of first world technologies, the language, and even the malaria medication. But it’s not to say you won’t have an amazing experience. There are just a few things you should consider before making the decision or heading off somewhere to volunteer…

1. What skills do I have?

SONY DSCRemember volunteering is about you helping someone else. It’s not just an activity undertaken so you can tell everyone that you volunteer, or to make you feel good about yourself. Volunteering is about sharing skills and knowledge with locals to build their capacity. In other words, when you leave, you leave a new skill set with the people so that they can continue on the work you started with them. This can be in the form of agricultural and farming best practices, teaching techniques that fit with the countries curriculum, or computing skills that assist people to effectively word process for business or education. When you finish your time volunteering, the aim is that you will have taught someone a new skill, that they can then teach to others (and therefore build the capacity of more local people).

2. Don’t make assumptions

Cultural differences, language translations, and many more factors can make for some confusing communications. Don’t assume that the rural village you are volunteering in has the same standards and expectations that are set in your home country. Particularly when it comes to living and education standards, what is appropriate behaviour guidance (discipline) at home may not be the same where you are volunteering. Speak to the teachers, elders, or leaders where you are volunteering to find out more about what is normal practice.

3. Be respectful

You are visiting another country, and most likely another culture. Find out what kind of clothes you should wear while volunteering. It is embarrassing for you and could be disrespectful to the locals to rock up in short shorts, when the knees are not to be seen, etc. By dressing in an appropriate way it will help to build a relationship between yourself and the locals you are working with, as they will see that you respect them and their culture.

4. Plan ahead

Don’t turn up unprepared. It could ruin your time volunteering and leave you feeling negative about the whole experience and place. Take resources with you, as you don’t know what they will (or won’t) have available to use. Take your malaria tablets at night, before going to bed. If you are going to have a reaction to them, it will kick in about 30-60 minutes after taking the tablet. If you can fall asleep before you start to feel dizzy, nausea, or headaches, you can by-pass the worst part of the reaction. Take water purifying resources, as a back up to bottled water.

5. Volunteering doesn’t end when you leave

SONY DSCJust because your time is up doesn’t mean you can’t continue participating and being involved in the project. Ask about what you can do to help from home. Are there resources you can collect to send over? Can you spread the word to others about your experience and encourage them to help or volunteer? Could you organise a fundraiser or start a charity in your home town? The possibilities are endless and only limited by you. It doesn’t have to be a big commitment, even small things like sending (post or email) new teaching ideas/techniques, as a follow-up from something you did while volunteering, can be helpful. And they continue to build capacity in the local community, which is the end goal of a volunteer’s visit.

 

Neighbourgoods Market

On the corner of Juta St, downtown Johannesburg, smoke wafts out of concrete pillars of the first floor car park. A few metres up the side street and people pour in and out of an alley way, laughing, chatting excitedly while slurping on exotic coloured fruit juices. We follow the stream of people up into the first level of the car park to discover the Neighbourgoods Market. An entire level of food. African, Australian, Italian, seafood, wine, cakes, breads, juices, beers, frozen margarita’s, and more.

Neighbour Good Market

Neighbourgoods Market

Salivating over the food on offer, we head upstairs to the second level and out into the sun. Tables, surrounded by people enjoying the Saturday sunshine, good food and a few cold brews, crowd the concrete platform. Undercover and a bar, more tables, and clothes stalls fill up the space.

Seafood Paella

Seafood Paella

It’s the place to be on a Saturday. So I know where I’m going to be next Saturday for lunch…

Lemon, Lime & Mint iced juice

Lemon, Lime & Mint iced juice

Cruising in Soweto

Published on Bucket List Publications

The most famous township in the world lies hidden from Johannesburg’s view behind two big lumps of dirt the locals call ‘blinders’. But no amount of dirt can block the influence and impact Soweto has had on the world and the folk at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers are proud to share Soweto and its history with everyone. On a sunny winters day I set out on a two-hour Soweto bicycle tour to see inside the only suburb to ever produce two Nobel Prize recipients.

Soweto is not a slum. It’s a planned township with designated housing lots: a family quarter; single male quarter (from the mining days); a suburb the government put tight restrictions on to ensure it never turned into a slum. Turning off the highway into Soweto, my stomach started backflipping as we drove through the streets and everyone stared at two whities in our little i10. After all the warnings I received from friends and family about being careful not to be shot in South Africa, I momentarily worried that maybe I’d gotten in over my head. But ignorance breeds fear and I was quickly shown that the people of Soweto were just like people in any other neighbourhood, in fact they were welcoming and friendly, which is more than some neighbourhoods at home are.

Soweto

With a group of 22 on the bike tour from Australia, UK and locals from Johannesburg who have never been to Soweto, we set off on our cruiser bikes through West Orlando. NK our guide provided information and entertainment along the way. Singing of the Solomon Linda classic song “Mbube” or as it’s more popularly known “The lion sleeps tonight”, drawing Sotwetan locals and the even police to join in clapping along. From West Orlando we crossed the highway into the old men’s quarters to taste the local delicacies.

Joburg beer followed by a non-alcoholic hangover prevention drink, more singing, some cow cheek or tongue dipped in salt and paprika eaten with pap (smooth maize meal dish) and all washed down with Black Label beer. The local elders sitting in the Shebeen (an illicit bar) drinking beer and playing dice games, were keen to chat and have photos taken. Not completely sure of the meat on offer, I dipped a piece of cow cheek into the salt and paprika. It’s one of the things you have to do when traveling, suck it up and try the local delicacies. To my surprise it wasn’t that bad, tasting like normal meat.  It wasn’t eye fillet of course, but it wasn’t vomit worthy either.

Joburg Beer

Tasting local delicacies

Leaving the food tasting my bicycle chain popped off, while NK worked of repairing my bike, I got the opportunity to meet some of the local kids. They quickly closed in keen to touch my hand and see that my skin really was white. We then shared hi-5′s and local handshakes that involve fist pounding and thumb flicking. There were lots of requests to “shoot me” (take a photo) and giggles as they saw them selves posing on my camera display screen. The rest of the bike ride children ran out from front yards to say hi and give hi-5′s. The barrier between white and black, rich and poor forgotten. Instead I was enjoying cruising along on my bicycle, my fears gone, replaced by an enjoyment at getting to meet the locals of the Soweto township (even if only briefly).

Posing for a “shoot me” photograph

The last stop on the tour was the street where Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu lived in Soweto. Overlooking the water cooling towers now painted brightly to express the hardships, successes, lives and dreams of the Soweto township residents. And the tour left me with a sense of hope, which is exactly what it provides for the locals too. The tour provides employment, integration with the community and a way to break down the walls of ignorance and fear. Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers setting an example in the community of creating something positive. They don’t have the newest equipment and they acknowledge this at the beginning of the tour, but it didn’t matter, because I had a ball getting an insight into the most famous township in the world.

*Independent review of Soweto Bicycle Tour

Out the front of Nelson Mandela’s house

Malawi Time

Malawi time: A measure of time that extends anywhere from one hour to one year after the specified or agreed upon time.

I’d learnt on my last visit to Malawi to never make plans. Have a rough idea of what I’d like to see or achieve, but never set a time or date as it is likely to change several times before anything actually happens. This can be a very hard concept to deal with when you come from the western world and everything runs to schedule; a bus running two minutes late is irritating or having to wait 45 minutes to see a doctor is a major pain in the backside.

In Malawi time has very little meaning. Things will get done eventually and there is no point in stressing about it in the mean time. To alleviate the stress of schedules and plans the best strategy is to not plan at all. If there are no expectations that you will get a lift to the market at 2 pm on Thursday, but you don’t make it there until 1o am on Friday, then it won’t bother you. Regardless of the fact that you’ve run out of food, you will still get to the market at some point and in the interim you get creative about making food out of whatever random bits and pieces you have left (or can mix with food from the children’s kitchen – nsima and beans).

Meetings get shuffled from one day to the next as more important matters arise. While I was in Malawi I had meeting reshuffled to fit in visiting relatives from the groom’s family as the grand daughter of the man I had the meeting with was getting married in a week and it is Malawian custom for this visit to take place. Interviews were postponed for emergency trips to the Boma (market) as a bill had to be paid and photo sessions of particular projects/children/classrooms were done the next day because the people required for the photo simply couldn’t be found at the time.

At the end of 10 days though I had every photo I needed, all but one interview was conducted (and it could be done by email), and I had information overload from all the meetings and visits I’d been a part of. Malawi time works… if you don’t fight it. Things happen as they are supposed to and no sooner or later.

While driving out of Lilongwe to a project in the villages, Grieve (the Malawian project co-ordinator) commented on my ramblings about Malawi time:

“Isn’t that a statement about life though. We don’t plan to be born or to die. So why plan everything in between.”

I have to agree. Things happen because you make them happen, not because they are planned according to a specific time or date.

Flying past the moon

I’m not sure where the days went. But here I am sitting in Sydney International Airport. Halfway through the seven hours I have between flights. The past semester at university, a distant memory. Did I really just hand in the last of 6 assignments two days ago? It feels like a life time ago. My brain has already switched gears. Student me is gone and all knowledge I’ve been witness to for the past four months gone. In its place the next six weeks. Africa.

Reading through my plane tickets and ensuring I had them all printed out last night, it finally sunk in that I’m off to Africa for six weeks. Not just to see the sites, but to research, learn and start the wheels in motion for a few projects that until this point have just been words floating through my brain; quickly typed into iPhone notes or written on scraps of paper/backs of uni note books so I remembered the thoughts. The ideas floating around as dreams are turning into reality.

Which is possibly why it doesn’t feel real. I’m on my way there, but not quite there. I’m flying past the moon. Somewhere between reality and dream.

A stroll down Bourke St

It could be any other street in inner city Sydney. But Bourke St, between Dank St in Waterloo and Foveaux St in Surrey Hills is full of history, food and interesting sites everywhere you look. I took a stroll along Bourke St on my way into the city and was surprised at what I found…

Original Police Station

Bourke St Public School

Bourke St Public School Boys entrance

Bourke St Public School Girls entrance

Cafe seating soaking up the warm sunshine

Boulangerie – if you can, try the Chorizo, Potato and Leek soup with a wedge of fresh crusty bread for lunch

The Book Kitchen

 

Vivid lights up Sydney

If you happen to be in Sydney or going to Sydney between May 25 and June 11 head down to Circular Quay and the Rocks to check out the Vivid Sydney festival. There are a number of events on for the festival, including several free ones. I joined families, tourists, photographers and sticky beaks to enjoy the free light displays in one of Sydney’s most iconic areas.

Interactive light and music displays, light shows on the Museum of Contemporary Arts building, the Opera House and even the harbour waters itself, the creators of the displays have timed projected light shows to unfold across the buildings to music and giant shadows to walk along the famous sails of the Opera House.

The fresh Sydney evening weather was well worth it. The highlight of my walk through the Vivid Sydney festival is definitely the projector show on the Museum of Contemporary Art. Find a patch of grass and lie back and enjoy the show.

Sydney Harbour Bridge Chandelier

Museum of Contemporary Art

The Art of Packing

I wish it were possible to click your fingers and POOF! Packing magically done. Unfortunately this is not the case and often many extra useless items make their way into my backpack. Only to be carried around all trip and never see the light of day.

My last big overseas trip (2010) I packed three hours before I had to be at the airport. Anything I didn’t have I bought along the way, but there were a few things, that a week into my trip, I stared at wondering what I’d been thinking when I threw them into my bag. With three weeks left before I head off to Africa for six weeks, I’ve decided to take packing a little more seriously this time.  For starters I’ll possibly be spending time in climates ranging from cold winter mornings in Kruger National Park to hot and humid summer Equatorial weather of Kenya and any other variations in between. To avoid carrying around excessive amounts of clothing, shoes and scarves, I’ve devised a system that works for me. To cull the unnecessary crap from the pile of things to take. It’s as simple as 4 easy steps:

1. Assemble everything you think you need and want to take on your trip on to a bed or floor space (where you can leave it for a long period of time). Leave for a week.

2. Come back to pile with anything extra you have thought of through out the week and add to the pile.  Walk away for another week.

3. Come in and start culling. Do you really need 4 scarves? Wouldn’t it be cheaper to buy another book over there if you actually have time to get through the first book let alone the other six you already have in the pile? Leave the culled pile in a corner separate to the packing pile. Do a mock bag pack. Does everything fit? Do you have space for toiletries and electronics items that you will add at the last minute? Walk away for a day or two.

4. Do a final cull. Being a day out or the day you are flying you will probably be adding all your gadgets now.  Power cords, electricity adapters, cameras, laptops or anything else. There will be a few more items culled for sure. Remember your passport, itineraries, plane tickets and any other important documentation (it’s surprising how easy it is to forget these things).

Method to the madness

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