Tofo, Mozambique

If you’re the kind of traveller that loves a good backpackers party then you can’t go past Tofo. With gorgeous sandy beaches, surf, scuba diving, and a bunch of other fun activities on offer it is a backpackers Mecca. But it’s once the sun starts to dip beneath the hills that the real activities of Tofo unfold.

Dj’s, bands and plenty of drinking, plus chances are that Tofo is the place you will run into every other traveller you’ve met in Mozambique. If you’ve had enough of small fishing villages and getting to hang out with the locals then Tofo is also a good stop over. It has definitely been taken over by the tourism bug. You’ll get charged more for everything here, alcohol, souvenirs, accommodation, and the locals are not quite as friendly to deal with as other destinations in Mozambique. The influence of the Western world is visible here in locals capitalizing on the tourism industry, and so they should. There is money and job opportunities to be had and it should be locals benefiting from this.

If you are after a relaxing travel experience where you can immerse yourself in the culture with the locals of Mozambique, then Tofo is not the ideal location. But for a good time with plenty of sun, beach, and backpackers then Tofo is it.

The Old Hotel, Pomene, Mozambique

Mozambique is a slow cooker melting pot of tropical tribal traditions, laid back beach lifestyle and lost in time Portuguese influences. Perched high on the point at Pomene are remnants of the Portuguese in the form of the Old Hotel. Crumbling under the pressure from the ocean and time, it’s a stark contrast to the raw beauty and traditional living in this coastal reserve.

Vilankulo, Mozambique

For Christmas 2012, my Dad and I decided to road trip through Mozambique. Our first destination was Vilankulo, a 14 hour drive from the South African border crossing of Komatipoort, and the coastal town gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago.

SONY DSC

Vilankulo was the highlight of our 10 day Mozambique road trip. Compared to other towns it was less touristy, the weather was perfect with bright sunny days and cool breezes, and the locals were super friendly. A day trip out to Bazaruto Island and Benguerra Island is a must. With crystal turquoise water, soft white sand, and miles of sand dunes, beach and coral to explore, it is a spectacular trip. The snorkelling at 2 mile reef is ok. But, having grown up in the Whitsundays, I am a little hard to please when it comes to snorkelling spots now days. They have to be pretty amazing (full of schools of fish, turtles, large coral reef shelves and an abundance of marine life hiding in amongst the coral) to impress me.

Top of the sand dunes Bazaruto Island

Top of the sand dunes Bazaruto Island

Baobab Beach Backpackers is a little run down, but what it lacks in presentation, it makes up for in personality and atmosphere. Christmas Day the kitchen put on a roast dinner and our Mozam family gathered to feast on the usual Christmas delights, minus the usual family fun-filled squabbles or stress of presents. For Dinner later on, members of my new-found international family, bartered for some fresh calamari and reef fish, for a Christmas night Braai. So regardless of being thousands of kilometres from home, we still stuffed out selves silly for the day.

Christmas Dinner Braai preparation

Christmas Dinner Braai preparation

Located 3-4 houses up the road from the entrance to the Backpackers is a dress makers. For around $10 USD you can have a custom-made dress, top, skirt whipped up in a matter of hours. Head down to the market in town where there is a decent selection of cheap local fabric to choose from, before heading back out to the dress makers to get measured for your outfit. While making alterations to my finalised dress we were invited to join in with the families Christmas celebrations.

Christmas celebrations with the dress makers family

Christmas celebrations with the dress makers family

The friendliness of the people in Vilankulo is what made this place so special. No where else in Mozambique were we able to interact and hang out with the locals in such a relaxed way. In Vilankulo it wasn’t all about trying to make a buck off the tourists, instead trying to overcome language barriers to learn a little about each other’s way of life and enjoy a few laughs, while relaxing in tropical paradise.

Rum Balls

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas… well, the only Christmas-y thing we have done is make Rum Balls. Christmas day this year will be spent in Mozambique with my dad camping. So we are forgoing the tree, decorations & presents, and instead going exploring and camping. Just like we did when I was a kid. We are going to go snorkelling and eat seafood on the beach until we are so full we have to roll back to our campsite. I’m finally going to learn to scuba dive too.

But there is one tradition in our family that we couldn’t pass up. The making of and gorging on rum balls is a staple part of my families diet all through December. For as long as I can remember rum balls were made in quantities large enough to feed several neighbourhoods. Wrapped in cellophane and spread out to teachers, co-workers, friends and family as gifts, they were our family contribution to Christmas spirit.

So arriving in Johannesburg with a bottle of original Bundy Rum (my sisters Christmas present to my dad) and a bottle of limited edition Dark Oak Bundy Rum (my Christmas present to my dad), the first thing my dad said was “now we can make some rum balls”. And either my sister and I should have communicated better on our choices of gifts not to double up, or we know our dad so well that the only acceptable gift was as much Bundy Rum as I could carry into the country. I am going with the later, as there is nothing worse than living in another country and not having access to your favourite foods or drinks from home. Plus, through mine and my sister’s sensational ability to know just what dad would want, we were now able to make rum balls.

And our family Christmas tradition can live on, even if it is in another country.

Ingredients

Ingredients

Rum Balls

250g Weetbix

1 can of condensed milk

1 cup of cocoa

1 cup of shredded coconut

1 1/2 tablespoons of rum (although this is really flexible, so add what you want to suit your own taste)

extra coconut for rolling.

Method

Crush Weetbix in a mixing bowl. Stir in cocoa and coconut. Add condensed milk and rum. Using your hands combine mixture, then roll into small bite size balls. Roll in extra coconut. Place in fridge to cool. Then eat!!

Rum balls... & the benefits of being the one making them

Rum balls… & the benefits of being the one making them

 

The Panorama Route

South Africa usually invokes images of sweeping savannah bushveld, the ‘Big 5’, or on a political front, Nelson Mandela. But, South Africa is a country made up of much more than the wild life or violent past of apartheid. It’s a landscape steeped in history that is entwined with the spectacular views. The Panorama Route, nestled in the North East of the country, is a 285 km drive starting from the Western side of Kruger National Park, near the Orpen Gate and ending in the town of Sabie. It’s a drive that showcases dramatic scenery. From colourful mineral rich mountains, to waterfalls plunging from pool to pool, and valleys developed from the shifting fault lines over time, pushing the land higher into the sky.

Taking a tourist drive anywhere in Africa has never been high on my to-do list. African roads are generally appalling, nothing more than oversized sidewalks scattered with crater-like potholes. The South African government, along with the local communities on the route, have injected money into maintaining the roads, as well as facilities and services in a bid to entice local and international travellers to their stunning part of the world.

Standing on the edge of the rock plateau, I look out over the sweeping vista of the Blyde River Canyon and Three Rondavels (named for their resemblance to the traditional South African thatched roof hut). I can’t help but pause and wonder at the beauty before me, hidden so thoroughly from sight on the winding drive up through the range only moments ago.

Following on from the Blyde River Canyon, is the tourist stop of Bourke’s Luck Potholes. And there are a lot of tourists, with an information centre on the history of the area, monkeys running through the Braai (BBQ) and picnic area, and local handicraft stalls. The stallholders are friendly and happy to barter over prices of carved wooden or stone animals, beaded jewellery, fabrics, and prints.

There is one more stop to make, before my growling stomach announces it’s time to head to Graskop for a feed. Another panoramic view from the Wander View free lookout spot, or God’s Window, around the corner, with a tourist fee to enter. Both provide spectacular views across the ranges, perfect for posing in front of the camera for that, “I’m on top of the world” kind of photo.

Graskop is a bustling little town made for tourism. I’m thinking with my stomach though. So it’s straight to Harrie’s Pancakes, an institution in South Africa. In peak season, you have to ring and book a table in advance, due to the residents of Johannesburg escaping the city on a weekend getaway, and all going to Harrie’s to eat.

I’ve ordered the banana and cinnamon filled pancake with ice cream. Next door, is Chocolate, Shautany Chocolatiers, a decadent indulgence for my sweet tooth and an entrée to my pancake main. I test out the Macadamia covered Belgian chocolates, tempted by the nuts grown locally alongside the Panorama Route in the multitude of orchards. My pancake arrives, ice cream oozing onto the plate, and for a moment I can’t decide which is better: The food or the scenery I’ve driven through so far?

The Panorama Route well and truly lived up to its name.

 

 

A stroll down Bourke St

It could be any other street in inner city Sydney. But Bourke St, between Dank St in Waterloo and Foveaux St in Surrey Hills is full of history, food and interesting sites everywhere you look. I took a stroll along Bourke St on my way into the city and was surprised at what I found…

Original Police Station

Bourke St Public School

Bourke St Public School Boys entrance

Bourke St Public School Girls entrance

Cafe seating soaking up the warm sunshine

Boulangerie – if you can, try the Chorizo, Potato and Leek soup with a wedge of fresh crusty bread for lunch

The Book Kitchen

 

Vivid lights up Sydney

If you happen to be in Sydney or going to Sydney between May 25 and June 11 head down to Circular Quay and the Rocks to check out the Vivid Sydney festival. There are a number of events on for the festival, including several free ones. I joined families, tourists, photographers and sticky beaks to enjoy the free light displays in one of Sydney’s most iconic areas.

Interactive light and music displays, light shows on the Museum of Contemporary Arts building, the Opera House and even the harbour waters itself, the creators of the displays have timed projected light shows to unfold across the buildings to music and giant shadows to walk along the famous sails of the Opera House.

The fresh Sydney evening weather was well worth it. The highlight of my walk through the Vivid Sydney festival is definitely the projector show on the Museum of Contemporary Art. Find a patch of grass and lie back and enjoy the show.

Sydney Harbour Bridge Chandelier

Museum of Contemporary Art

Preparing for Africa

Going to Africa is one of the most incredible experiences anyone can ever have.  The diversity of culture, wildlife and the varied landscapes from open savannah plains to ocean waves crashing against rocky cliff walls, Africa has it all covered.  But travelling in Africa requires a little extra consideration and planning to most vacations or travel spots.  Here are my tips for before you head into the wilds of Africa.

1. Vaccinations and Medical Supplies

As with travelling to any developing country, it is crucial to speak with your doctor a good 6-8 weeks before heading off ,so that you can get the necessary vaccinations and refills for any prescription medication you take.  If you are prone to specific sicknesses (e.g. I regularly get throat infections/illnesses) take a standard course of the antibiotics you would normally treat this with at home.  there is nothing worse than going away on holidays and getting sick (generally after your long haul flight).  The medications might not be the same as what you would take at home, you could be out in the middle of no where, or language might be a barrier in getting the treatment needed.  If you carry a course of antibiotics you will be able to start treating the illness immediately and get on with enjoying your travels sooner.  The key though is to always speak to your doctor first and follow their advice for travelling to Africa.

Other medical supplies I don’t go travelling with out:

- Paw Paw Ointment (natural ointment good for burns, cuts, bites, rashes, chapped skin)

- Iodine Ointment (good for reactions to bites, infected cuts, scratches, splinters)

- Bandaids (good for covering blisters and small cuts)

- Sunscreen, Insect Repellent and Hand Sanitiser Gel

2. Travel Insurance

Read the fine print of your travel insurance!  Some policies won’t cover you if you become sick or contract Malaria, if you are taking the weekly dosage Malaria medications.  There can also be certain activities, such as motorbike riding or adventure activities, that may not be covered under basic policies.  If you are unsure of your travel plans in Africa before leaving, it may be safer to pay the little bit extra for a comprehensive policy, to ensure you are not having to pass up on great experiences once there, simply because your travel insurance won’t cover it.

Also, read the details relating to broken or stolen items (this particularly applies to camera equipment).  Some insurance policies will only pay out for stolen items if you have a police report to support your claim.

The main thing with travel insurance is to just spend the time reading all the details, to ensure you know what you are covered for and won’t be in for a nasty surprise later if something unfortunately goes wrong.

3. Advice on where to go and what to do

There are many places you can go to for information on where and what to do while in Africa.  Don’t start at the travel agent straight away.  Spend some time trawling the wealth of information, reviews and advice on the internet.  Travel blogs, Lonely Planet website, or advice and review websites such as Trip Advisor are a great place to start.  Then combine this with information from different travel agents, to ensure you find the right style of trip for you.  Travel Agents are great help with visas.  Getting a visa on short notice in some countries can be very hard to do.  I’ve made the mistake before and subsequently missed a whole section of my trip, as I wasn’t allowed to board my flight to Nigeria because I didn’t have a visa.

4. Be aware of local customs and culture

In Morocco, woman should dress covering their shoulders and down past their knees.  In parts of Malawi, woman wear skirts and men must wear trousers that at least cover the knee.  Often, it is easier to pick up the right type of clothing from a local market at a far cheaper cost than what you would pay at home.  When packing clothes, plan on taking basics for the season you will be travelling in, specific items that help you dress respectfully and culturally appropriate can be bought in country.  This way you carrying less in your bags and supporting local businesses with your purchases.

5. Have an open mind

A lot of places in Africa are poor.  It is a developing nation after all.  Keep an open mind to the places you see, people you meet and try not to put expectations of how things should be compared to what they are like at home.  This will very quickly ruin your experience.  Most places run on African time and I’m not talking G.M.T, I mean if someone says a time to you, don’t be upset if they turn up four hours later.  It happens in business and in every facet of African life.  There is no rush.

If you plan on visiting/volunteering at an orphanage in Africa, keep in mind that the conditions you witness, while may not meet your ideas of what an orphanage should look like or be, far exceed the conditions the children would otherwise live in.  Many orphans would have previously lived on the street, or in a tiny mud brick hut, that leaked every time it rained and shared a small blanket on the floor with several other siblings.  At the orphanage, they receive shelter, three meals a day, clothing, basic medical care and an education.  All things they might otherwise go without.

Venice Beach

It’s like walking through a circus.  California’s Venice is the meeting place for everything and everyone.  From astounding trick bike displays, to sideshows of art and psychedelic creations, homeless beggars to men dressed in green hospital scrubs sprouting the praises of medical Marijuana.  There is music blaring from the beach, the bars and the buskers.  Then there is the crowd weaving through each other on the beach boardwalk, a tangled mesh of tourists and locals, beach bums and gangsters, hipsters and the devil.  Yep, I even saw the devil at Venice, stumbling around carrying a big cross over his shoulder.  The circus arrived at Venice… and never left.

My first visit to Venice was early on a Sunday morning.  The police were just getting set up on their mountain bikes for the day, a few of the beautiful people had risen early to walk their dogs.  The homeless were spread out across the grassy parklands, warming up in the sunshine, that had just risen above the buildings.  The grunts and aggressive yells of basketball players and muscle men and woman floated along from the open aired gym and the smell of freshly made breakfast burritos warmed my insides as I watched a lone figure flow through a Tai Chi exercise.  It almost seemed like a peaceful place.  The circus when the main show is finished and the teamsters slowly rouse for the new day, enjoying the calm serenity, before the crowds arrive to see the show and the chaos starts all over again.

Tai Chi

 

My following visit was two weeks later on a Sunday afternoon.  This time I walked straight into the circus’ main grand finale it seemed.  A growing gathering, at least fifty people wide converged on the beach.  From somewhere inside the mass of bodies, drums beat together, their sound rising up like steam and vibrating along the beach.  Later on that night, it would take five police SUV’s to break up the circle, so lost in the music and energy, that not even a two tonne car could separate the mass of bodies on the beach.  Girls on roller skates, weaved in and out of walkers, joggers, skateboarders and cyclists.  A staunch gangsta dude in his bright green Adidas tracksuits, walked his bull-dog along the boardwalk.  And the whole way along the boardwalk, side shows of magic tricks, art work on skate decks for sale and homeless people asking for money for booze, drugs, food flooded the senses with things to try to take in.  The colour, the smells, the sounds, it was a sensory overload, not knowing where to look next, which sounds to listen to or wanting to miss anything that happened.

The beauty of Venice is that the circus is not contained to the beach side boardwalk.  Every side street contains something exciting to see.  The sideshows continue the whole walk back to the car.  Giant murals on buildings, a Mexican cholo street fight, pavement lifted by tree roots or earthquakes, but neglected and left to grow and morph in its own natural-urban way, there is always something to see, something happening.  The circus never stops, it just keeps rolling on.

Las Vegas

Before heading to Las Vegas, my only prior information on what to expect came from friends pieced together drunken memories and the movie the Hangover.  Oh and my Dad’s advice that “it’s not that safe, surely you’d like to go someone else while in America”.  Yes there are a lot of places in America I’d like to see, but Vegas was within decent road trip distance for the short vacation time I had.  Plus it’s just one of those places you have to go and experience once in your life time.

Treasure Island

With two nights booked at Treasure Island on the strip, I was ready to indulge in some sun, cocktails and all that Vegas had to offer (within my measly budget).  It seems the key to accommodation on the cheap is to book a few days before hand on a site such as Vegas.com, to get deals of at least 50% off the normal price of a room, plus added bonuses of meal vouchers, chip vouchers, show discounts, etc., allowing you more money to spend on your choice of shopping, gambling, booze or strippers.

The sun was out, so the first stop was the hotel pool for some sun baking and the start of my three-day cocktail drinking spree.  Not that I was aiming to achieve a state of drunken mess for the whole time.  It was more of a cocktail sample tour.  Every meal required a different cocktail or trying out the house cocktail at each bar, in order to expand my horizons outside of my standard drink of choice, Jack Daniels and coke.

However, after quickly remembering I was sun baking in a desert (the sun burn being the give away), it was time to explore Las Vegas in the safety of broad daylight.  The Mirage and Bellagio pools lining the Strip, the Eiffel Tower rising up out of the Paris Casino, the star-studded memorabilia at Planet Hollywood and the fake New York skyline of New York New York were just the beginning.  Half the entertainment of walking the Strip is the buskers dressed up as different superheroes, drunken Homer Simpson’s or dancing Michael Jackson’s waiting to be in your photos.  All for a tip of course.  But after wandering outside, it was time to try my hand at gambling in Vegas.

Mirage Casino

New York New York

I was a little wary of gambling after my Black Jack Poker experience in Vietnam.  But when in Vegas… What the hey!  Turns out I’m either incredibly lucky or incredibly good at playing roulette.  After my previous gambling flop, I was claiming this one as pure talent.  I hadn’t reached the winning status of being lucky enough to never have to work again, but had at least made a little on my initial investment.

Head away from the Strip and the buy in prices at the tables are drastically cheaper.  Old Vegas is a must see, with Casino’s that look straight out of the 50′s and 60′s, with their retro, print carpets, and tables, slot machines and people who look like they haven’t moved in fifty years.  Although there is still a lot of action going on and a lot of money exchanging hands.

As the sunsets over the desert, I wouldn’t even know it was happening, time loses all meaning in Vegas.  There are no clocks, no windows, no idea how long I’ve been sitting playing roulette for or even what day it is.  The Paris Casino adds to the confusion, with blue sky and clouds painted on the ceiling.  A small bird flew from fake roof top to fake roof top, lining the cobbled street inside the Casino.  He stopped momentarily in a fake tree branch, before setting off again.  I watched wondering if he was as confused as I was, about whether we were inside or outside, or if it was day or night.

Night time on the Strip is like stepping into a whole new world.  Mexican and Latino men and woman hustle the sidewalk, clad in fluro t-shirts advertising “girls in 20 minutes” or “Girls, Girls, Girls” and flicking business cards of naked woman at you.  Sleazy, wrinkled face, guys offer free limousine rides, free entry and free drinks to strip clubs… as long as you spend $25 on drinks when you get there.  Trucks with posters of naked woman lying, arching their backs seductively, pass by in the steady stream of traffic.  It’s like porn delivered straight to you as you walk by.

Vegas at Night

Night time on the Strip is the part of the story, where the Hangover movie starts to become relatable.  There are night clubs to visit, VIP lounges by the dance floor to sit in drinking Vodka and waited on by our very own hostess and gambling to do.  In the end what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas.  As Las Vegas seems like some mystical world, in a far off galaxy, where really it all must just be a dream.  The sleaze, the money, the booze, drugs, porn, homelessness and excess all mesh together 24 hours, 7 days a week, never stopping to come up for air, never taking a break for reality.  It’s fun for a few days and then it’s time to leave, to escape back out through the desert, driving back to the real world.

Vegas really is one of those places you have to experience once in your life time.  I’m glad I survived my experience, with a little bit of money left over and a whole lot of memories.

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