Tofo, Mozambique

If you’re the kind of traveller that loves a good backpackers party then you can’t go past Tofo. With gorgeous sandy beaches, surf, scuba diving, and a bunch of other fun activities on offer it is a backpackers Mecca. But it’s once the sun starts to dip beneath the hills that the real activities of Tofo unfold.

Dj’s, bands and plenty of drinking, plus chances are that Tofo is the place you will run into every other traveller you’ve met in Mozambique. If you’ve had enough of small fishing villages and getting to hang out with the locals then Tofo is also a good stop over. It has definitely been taken over by the tourism bug. You’ll get charged more for everything here, alcohol, souvenirs, accommodation, and the locals are not quite as friendly to deal with as other destinations in Mozambique. The influence of the Western world is visible here in locals capitalizing on the tourism industry, and so they should. There is money and job opportunities to be had and it should be locals benefiting from this.

If you are after a relaxing travel experience where you can immerse yourself in the culture with the locals of Mozambique, then Tofo is not the ideal location. But for a good time with plenty of sun, beach, and backpackers then Tofo is it.

Vilankulo, Mozambique

For Christmas 2012, my Dad and I decided to road trip through Mozambique. Our first destination was Vilankulo, a 14 hour drive from the South African border crossing of Komatipoort, and the coastal town gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago.

SONY DSC

Vilankulo was the highlight of our 10 day Mozambique road trip. Compared to other towns it was less touristy, the weather was perfect with bright sunny days and cool breezes, and the locals were super friendly. A day trip out to Bazaruto Island and Benguerra Island is a must. With crystal turquoise water, soft white sand, and miles of sand dunes, beach and coral to explore, it is a spectacular trip. The snorkelling at 2 mile reef is ok. But, having grown up in the Whitsundays, I am a little hard to please when it comes to snorkelling spots now days. They have to be pretty amazing (full of schools of fish, turtles, large coral reef shelves and an abundance of marine life hiding in amongst the coral) to impress me.

Top of the sand dunes Bazaruto Island

Top of the sand dunes Bazaruto Island

Baobab Beach Backpackers is a little run down, but what it lacks in presentation, it makes up for in personality and atmosphere. Christmas Day the kitchen put on a roast dinner and our Mozam family gathered to feast on the usual Christmas delights, minus the usual family fun-filled squabbles or stress of presents. For Dinner later on, members of my new-found international family, bartered for some fresh calamari and reef fish, for a Christmas night Braai. So regardless of being thousands of kilometres from home, we still stuffed out selves silly for the day.

Christmas Dinner Braai preparation

Christmas Dinner Braai preparation

Located 3-4 houses up the road from the entrance to the Backpackers is a dress makers. For around $10 USD you can have a custom-made dress, top, skirt whipped up in a matter of hours. Head down to the market in town where there is a decent selection of cheap local fabric to choose from, before heading back out to the dress makers to get measured for your outfit. While making alterations to my finalised dress we were invited to join in with the families Christmas celebrations.

Christmas celebrations with the dress makers family

Christmas celebrations with the dress makers family

The friendliness of the people in Vilankulo is what made this place so special. No where else in Mozambique were we able to interact and hang out with the locals in such a relaxed way. In Vilankulo it wasn’t all about trying to make a buck off the tourists, instead trying to overcome language barriers to learn a little about each other’s way of life and enjoy a few laughs, while relaxing in tropical paradise.

Tips for Volunteering

Volunteering overseas or at home is not a decision to be taken lightly. When you agree to volunteer, especially overseas, you accept responsibility to share your skills and help improve the quality of life for those less fortunate than yourself. The romantic notion of sweeping in to a small village or school and completely changing their world for the better in one week is, well, slightly unrealistic.

The reality of volunteering in a foreign country is that it is hard work. It takes time for you to adjust to the culture and way of life, the food, the lack of first world technologies, the language, and even the malaria medication. But it’s not to say you won’t have an amazing experience. There are just a few things you should consider before making the decision or heading off somewhere to volunteer…

1. What skills do I have?

SONY DSCRemember volunteering is about you helping someone else. It’s not just an activity undertaken so you can tell everyone that you volunteer, or to make you feel good about yourself. Volunteering is about sharing skills and knowledge with locals to build their capacity. In other words, when you leave, you leave a new skill set with the people so that they can continue on the work you started with them. This can be in the form of agricultural and farming best practices, teaching techniques that fit with the countries curriculum, or computing skills that assist people to effectively word process for business or education. When you finish your time volunteering, the aim is that you will have taught someone a new skill, that they can then teach to others (and therefore build the capacity of more local people).

2. Don’t make assumptions

Cultural differences, language translations, and many more factors can make for some confusing communications. Don’t assume that the rural village you are volunteering in has the same standards and expectations that are set in your home country. Particularly when it comes to living and education standards, what is appropriate behaviour guidance (discipline) at home may not be the same where you are volunteering. Speak to the teachers, elders, or leaders where you are volunteering to find out more about what is normal practice.

3. Be respectful

You are visiting another country, and most likely another culture. Find out what kind of clothes you should wear while volunteering. It is embarrassing for you and could be disrespectful to the locals to rock up in short shorts, when the knees are not to be seen, etc. By dressing in an appropriate way it will help to build a relationship between yourself and the locals you are working with, as they will see that you respect them and their culture.

4. Plan ahead

Don’t turn up unprepared. It could ruin your time volunteering and leave you feeling negative about the whole experience and place. Take resources with you, as you don’t know what they will (or won’t) have available to use. Take your malaria tablets at night, before going to bed. If you are going to have a reaction to them, it will kick in about 30-60 minutes after taking the tablet. If you can fall asleep before you start to feel dizzy, nausea, or headaches, you can by-pass the worst part of the reaction. Take water purifying resources, as a back up to bottled water.

5. Volunteering doesn’t end when you leave

SONY DSCJust because your time is up doesn’t mean you can’t continue participating and being involved in the project. Ask about what you can do to help from home. Are there resources you can collect to send over? Can you spread the word to others about your experience and encourage them to help or volunteer? Could you organise a fundraiser or start a charity in your home town? The possibilities are endless and only limited by you. It doesn’t have to be a big commitment, even small things like sending (post or email) new teaching ideas/techniques, as a follow-up from something you did while volunteering, can be helpful. And they continue to build capacity in the local community, which is the end goal of a volunteer’s visit.

 

Neighbourgoods Market

On the corner of Juta St, downtown Johannesburg, smoke wafts out of concrete pillars of the first floor car park. A few metres up the side street and people pour in and out of an alley way, laughing, chatting excitedly while slurping on exotic coloured fruit juices. We follow the stream of people up into the first level of the car park to discover the Neighbourgoods Market. An entire level of food. African, Australian, Italian, seafood, wine, cakes, breads, juices, beers, frozen margarita’s, and more.

Neighbour Good Market

Neighbourgoods Market

Salivating over the food on offer, we head upstairs to the second level and out into the sun. Tables, surrounded by people enjoying the Saturday sunshine, good food and a few cold brews, crowd the concrete platform. Undercover and a bar, more tables, and clothes stalls fill up the space.

Seafood Paella

Seafood Paella

It’s the place to be on a Saturday. So I know where I’m going to be next Saturday for lunch…

Lemon, Lime & Mint iced juice

Lemon, Lime & Mint iced juice

Cruising in Soweto

Published on Bucket List Publications

The most famous township in the world lies hidden from Johannesburg’s view behind two big lumps of dirt the locals call ‘blinders’. But no amount of dirt can block the influence and impact Soweto has had on the world and the folk at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers are proud to share Soweto and its history with everyone. On a sunny winters day I set out on a two-hour Soweto bicycle tour to see inside the only suburb to ever produce two Nobel Prize recipients.

Soweto is not a slum. It’s a planned township with designated housing lots: a family quarter; single male quarter (from the mining days); a suburb the government put tight restrictions on to ensure it never turned into a slum. Turning off the highway into Soweto, my stomach started backflipping as we drove through the streets and everyone stared at two whities in our little i10. After all the warnings I received from friends and family about being careful not to be shot in South Africa, I momentarily worried that maybe I’d gotten in over my head. But ignorance breeds fear and I was quickly shown that the people of Soweto were just like people in any other neighbourhood, in fact they were welcoming and friendly, which is more than some neighbourhoods at home are.

Soweto

With a group of 22 on the bike tour from Australia, UK and locals from Johannesburg who have never been to Soweto, we set off on our cruiser bikes through West Orlando. NK our guide provided information and entertainment along the way. Singing of the Solomon Linda classic song “Mbube” or as it’s more popularly known “The lion sleeps tonight”, drawing Sotwetan locals and the even police to join in clapping along. From West Orlando we crossed the highway into the old men’s quarters to taste the local delicacies.

Joburg beer followed by a non-alcoholic hangover prevention drink, more singing, some cow cheek or tongue dipped in salt and paprika eaten with pap (smooth maize meal dish) and all washed down with Black Label beer. The local elders sitting in the Shebeen (an illicit bar) drinking beer and playing dice games, were keen to chat and have photos taken. Not completely sure of the meat on offer, I dipped a piece of cow cheek into the salt and paprika. It’s one of the things you have to do when traveling, suck it up and try the local delicacies. To my surprise it wasn’t that bad, tasting like normal meat.  It wasn’t eye fillet of course, but it wasn’t vomit worthy either.

Joburg Beer

Tasting local delicacies

Leaving the food tasting my bicycle chain popped off, while NK worked of repairing my bike, I got the opportunity to meet some of the local kids. They quickly closed in keen to touch my hand and see that my skin really was white. We then shared hi-5′s and local handshakes that involve fist pounding and thumb flicking. There were lots of requests to “shoot me” (take a photo) and giggles as they saw them selves posing on my camera display screen. The rest of the bike ride children ran out from front yards to say hi and give hi-5′s. The barrier between white and black, rich and poor forgotten. Instead I was enjoying cruising along on my bicycle, my fears gone, replaced by an enjoyment at getting to meet the locals of the Soweto township (even if only briefly).

Posing for a “shoot me” photograph

The last stop on the tour was the street where Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu lived in Soweto. Overlooking the water cooling towers now painted brightly to express the hardships, successes, lives and dreams of the Soweto township residents. And the tour left me with a sense of hope, which is exactly what it provides for the locals too. The tour provides employment, integration with the community and a way to break down the walls of ignorance and fear. Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers setting an example in the community of creating something positive. They don’t have the newest equipment and they acknowledge this at the beginning of the tour, but it didn’t matter, because I had a ball getting an insight into the most famous township in the world.

*Independent review of Soweto Bicycle Tour

Out the front of Nelson Mandela’s house

A stroll down Bourke St

It could be any other street in inner city Sydney. But Bourke St, between Dank St in Waterloo and Foveaux St in Surrey Hills is full of history, food and interesting sites everywhere you look. I took a stroll along Bourke St on my way into the city and was surprised at what I found…

Original Police Station

Bourke St Public School

Bourke St Public School Boys entrance

Bourke St Public School Girls entrance

Cafe seating soaking up the warm sunshine

Boulangerie – if you can, try the Chorizo, Potato and Leek soup with a wedge of fresh crusty bread for lunch

The Book Kitchen

 

The Art of Packing

I wish it were possible to click your fingers and POOF! Packing magically done. Unfortunately this is not the case and often many extra useless items make their way into my backpack. Only to be carried around all trip and never see the light of day.

My last big overseas trip (2010) I packed three hours before I had to be at the airport. Anything I didn’t have I bought along the way, but there were a few things, that a week into my trip, I stared at wondering what I’d been thinking when I threw them into my bag. With three weeks left before I head off to Africa for six weeks, I’ve decided to take packing a little more seriously this time.  For starters I’ll possibly be spending time in climates ranging from cold winter mornings in Kruger National Park to hot and humid summer Equatorial weather of Kenya and any other variations in between. To avoid carrying around excessive amounts of clothing, shoes and scarves, I’ve devised a system that works for me. To cull the unnecessary crap from the pile of things to take. It’s as simple as 4 easy steps:

1. Assemble everything you think you need and want to take on your trip on to a bed or floor space (where you can leave it for a long period of time). Leave for a week.

2. Come back to pile with anything extra you have thought of through out the week and add to the pile.  Walk away for another week.

3. Come in and start culling. Do you really need 4 scarves? Wouldn’t it be cheaper to buy another book over there if you actually have time to get through the first book let alone the other six you already have in the pile? Leave the culled pile in a corner separate to the packing pile. Do a mock bag pack. Does everything fit? Do you have space for toiletries and electronics items that you will add at the last minute? Walk away for a day or two.

4. Do a final cull. Being a day out or the day you are flying you will probably be adding all your gadgets now.  Power cords, electricity adapters, cameras, laptops or anything else. There will be a few more items culled for sure. Remember your passport, itineraries, plane tickets and any other important documentation (it’s surprising how easy it is to forget these things).

Method to the madness

Gold Coast Gold

The Gold coast is typically associated with Surfers Paradise.  Which means the glitz and glamour of Cavill Ave and the strip of seedy nightclubs and packed main beach book ending it.  But take a step outside of this small, over spray tanned area, heavily blinged section of the coast and you will discover some truly beautiful places to enjoy.

For starters, find a quiet patch of beach and watch the sun rise.  With the mornings crisp and the gentle roll of waves breaking on the shore, it’s a peaceful way to start the day.  Take a walk around any of the areas outside of Surfers.  There are interesting sights everywhere you look.  This was how I spent my Sunday morning.  Taking a walk around Broadbeach after watching the sun rise, discovering little things I’d never seen before or finding interesting artwork/murals on the side of buildings.

So, here are a few photos of my walk around.  Enjoy…

Preparing for Africa

Going to Africa is one of the most incredible experiences anyone can ever have.  The diversity of culture, wildlife and the varied landscapes from open savannah plains to ocean waves crashing against rocky cliff walls, Africa has it all covered.  But travelling in Africa requires a little extra consideration and planning to most vacations or travel spots.  Here are my tips for before you head into the wilds of Africa.

1. Vaccinations and Medical Supplies

As with travelling to any developing country, it is crucial to speak with your doctor a good 6-8 weeks before heading off ,so that you can get the necessary vaccinations and refills for any prescription medication you take.  If you are prone to specific sicknesses (e.g. I regularly get throat infections/illnesses) take a standard course of the antibiotics you would normally treat this with at home.  there is nothing worse than going away on holidays and getting sick (generally after your long haul flight).  The medications might not be the same as what you would take at home, you could be out in the middle of no where, or language might be a barrier in getting the treatment needed.  If you carry a course of antibiotics you will be able to start treating the illness immediately and get on with enjoying your travels sooner.  The key though is to always speak to your doctor first and follow their advice for travelling to Africa.

Other medical supplies I don’t go travelling with out:

- Paw Paw Ointment (natural ointment good for burns, cuts, bites, rashes, chapped skin)

- Iodine Ointment (good for reactions to bites, infected cuts, scratches, splinters)

- Bandaids (good for covering blisters and small cuts)

- Sunscreen, Insect Repellent and Hand Sanitiser Gel

2. Travel Insurance

Read the fine print of your travel insurance!  Some policies won’t cover you if you become sick or contract Malaria, if you are taking the weekly dosage Malaria medications.  There can also be certain activities, such as motorbike riding or adventure activities, that may not be covered under basic policies.  If you are unsure of your travel plans in Africa before leaving, it may be safer to pay the little bit extra for a comprehensive policy, to ensure you are not having to pass up on great experiences once there, simply because your travel insurance won’t cover it.

Also, read the details relating to broken or stolen items (this particularly applies to camera equipment).  Some insurance policies will only pay out for stolen items if you have a police report to support your claim.

The main thing with travel insurance is to just spend the time reading all the details, to ensure you know what you are covered for and won’t be in for a nasty surprise later if something unfortunately goes wrong.

3. Advice on where to go and what to do

There are many places you can go to for information on where and what to do while in Africa.  Don’t start at the travel agent straight away.  Spend some time trawling the wealth of information, reviews and advice on the internet.  Travel blogs, Lonely Planet website, or advice and review websites such as Trip Advisor are a great place to start.  Then combine this with information from different travel agents, to ensure you find the right style of trip for you.  Travel Agents are great help with visas.  Getting a visa on short notice in some countries can be very hard to do.  I’ve made the mistake before and subsequently missed a whole section of my trip, as I wasn’t allowed to board my flight to Nigeria because I didn’t have a visa.

4. Be aware of local customs and culture

In Morocco, woman should dress covering their shoulders and down past their knees.  In parts of Malawi, woman wear skirts and men must wear trousers that at least cover the knee.  Often, it is easier to pick up the right type of clothing from a local market at a far cheaper cost than what you would pay at home.  When packing clothes, plan on taking basics for the season you will be travelling in, specific items that help you dress respectfully and culturally appropriate can be bought in country.  This way you carrying less in your bags and supporting local businesses with your purchases.

5. Have an open mind

A lot of places in Africa are poor.  It is a developing nation after all.  Keep an open mind to the places you see, people you meet and try not to put expectations of how things should be compared to what they are like at home.  This will very quickly ruin your experience.  Most places run on African time and I’m not talking G.M.T, I mean if someone says a time to you, don’t be upset if they turn up four hours later.  It happens in business and in every facet of African life.  There is no rush.

If you plan on visiting/volunteering at an orphanage in Africa, keep in mind that the conditions you witness, while may not meet your ideas of what an orphanage should look like or be, far exceed the conditions the children would otherwise live in.  Many orphans would have previously lived on the street, or in a tiny mud brick hut, that leaked every time it rained and shared a small blanket on the floor with several other siblings.  At the orphanage, they receive shelter, three meals a day, clothing, basic medical care and an education.  All things they might otherwise go without.

San Diego: Top three things to do

Having spent the past two weeks hanging out in San Diego, I’ve compiled my top things to see and do while visiting the gorgeous bay city in Southern California.  From the miles of board walks along the beach fronts, to the downtown bay area, the endless supply of bars and eateries to the world-famous San Diego Zoo, this place has it all.  Two hours south of Los Angeles, five-hour drive east to Las Vegas or 20 miles south to Mexico, it’s a great base for exploring.  So whether you are into holidaying on beaches, snowboarding in the mountains or partying it up, San Diego is the place to start at.  Two weeks were barely enough time to scratch the surface, so I’m looking forward to going back some day and spending more time exploring California’s oldest city.

1. Eating Mexican

From super cheap 99 cent Tacos from Jack in the box to full service Mexican restaurants, San Diego has Mexican food covered.  With claims that it’s better than real deal, there are endless places to stop and snack on Mexican food, whatever time of the day.  Try burritos, tamales, tacos, fajita, or enchilada washed down with a margarita.  San Diego’s own mexican inspired, Carne Asada Fries, is a must as a baseball game snack.

Chicken Tamales

For a great night out, head to Casa de Reyes Mexican Cuisine in Old Town San Diego.  The have a range of tequila’s available at the bar and the meals are delicious.  I can thoroughly recommend the Chicken Tamales.  Don’t forget to add hot sauce and wash it all down with a house margarita.

2. Sea Lions at La Jolla

The locals at the Children’s Beach in La Jolla, have caused a bit of controversy in recent years.  Mainly because they are not children, but Sea Lions.  Some local (people) residents want them removed so that children can enjoy the beach named for them.  The rest of the human locals say to leave the Sea Lions be.  Regardless of the name of the beach, it’s home to a sun baking bunch of Sea Lions, that play and swim for their own amusement, as much as the amusement of visitors on the cliff and break wall above.  Watching animals in their natural habitat is always a highlight for me.  I’d rather spend a day watching the Sea Lions swim and play, then going to a zoo to see animals.

Sea Lions at La Jolla

 

3. Bike ride along Mission Beach

Rollercoaster

Running north from the Mission Bay opening into the ocean, Mission Beach has miles of sidewalk running between the beach and bungalows, bars and eateries.  Sidewalk stalls renting beach cruiser bicycles are plentiful.  Alternatively roller blades, skateboards, penny skates or long boards also pack the pathway as locals and visitors weave their way through each other, enjoying the scenery.  Games of volleyball or ring toss take place on the beach the whole stretch of the sidewalk or at the southern end of the sidewalk check out the amusement park with wooden rollercoaster and wave house.  Grab a fresh lemonade, ice cream cone, mexican from any of the shacks set up or refresh after a long bike ride with a beer overlooking the ocean.

 

Mission Beach

Previous Older Entries

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 72 other followers

%d bloggers like this: